Pelagic birding

Red and Red-necked Phalaropes on glassy seas, off Newport, Oregon on 5 May 2012 by Greg Gillson

 
This past weekend I led a pelagic birding trip from Newport, Oregon. The weather and birds were so good and the tour so delightful that I wanted to document it with more than just a simple trip report with list of birds and a photo of rarities.

We boarded the boat, "Misty," and were underway by 7:00 a.m. Numerous Pelagic Cormorants were nesting on the bridge supports and pilings. Seven Brant remained on the mudflats exposed at low tide. Several Pigeon Guillemots swam and flew by. A flock of Brown Pelicans winged their way north over the jetties. As we neared the end of the jetties we spotted a Wandering Tattler high on a rock silhouetted by the sky.

We crossed into the ocean and headed south. Pacific Loons were migrating by near shore, now in breeding plumage. We spotted the blow of a Gray Whale in the shallows near shore but did not pursue a closer look. After about 10 minutes we spotted our quarry--a pair of Marbled Murrelets. Soon another pair flew off the water, and we turned the boat to head offshore. It wasn't long and we were seeing Red-necked Phalaropes sitting on the water and flying around in hyperactive flocks. Our first Sooty Shearwaters appeared and glassing the horizon we could see these pelagic birds flapping and gliding far ahead.

Brandt's Cormorant, off Newport, Oregon on 5 May 2012 by Greg Gillson

 
By the time we had been on the boat an hour our birding tour had made its way offshore about 5 miles and began seeing a change in the bird life. Loons and cormorants ended, while other ocean birds appeared. Over the next two-and-a-half hours we saw Sooty Shearwaters continuously--we tallied 2500 in this section of our trip. We also had Red-necked Phalaropes, estimating at least 1000 here. We were soon picking out Cassin's Auklets and Rhinoceros Auklets on the smooth waters ahead. About 15 miles offshore our Oregon nature tour came across three Humpback Whales splashing and rolling on the surface. The largest of the animals had a terrible wheezing breath, something the veterans on the trip had never heard before, and assume it indicates some kind of medical malady. Smartly-marked Sabine's Gulls flew over the waters. Tiny little Fork-tailed Storm-Petrels fluttered and darted low to the waves. About 20 miles offshore we came to the Stonewall Bank weather buoy. Our first Black-footed Albatrosses appeared here. Also in this area Red Phalaropes appeared and became more common the farther offshore we traveled, while the Red-necked Phalaropes decreased in abundance as we moved farther from land. A couple of Pink-footed Shearwaters were spotted.

Sabine's Gull, off Newport, Oregon on 5 May 2012 by Greg Gillson

 
Humpback Whale, off Newport, Oregon on 5 May 2012 by Greg Gillson

 
Smooth seas allowed us to easily spot seabirds a half mile to either side of the boat and far ahead--nothing was getting past us in a mile-wide swath as we motored on. A bird ahead on the water showed a large head and chunky body--some kind of alcid, probably a puffin. We slowed the boat and... Yes! A Horned Puffin! One of our target rarities for the day. The bird allowed us to circle the boat several times as we obtained numerous photos and great views. In almost 150 trips we have seen this species only five times. A mile farther we spotted our first Tufted Puffin of the day.

Horned Puffin, off Newport, Oregon on 5 May 2012 by Greg Gillson

 
It was 11:00 a.m. when we reached 30 nautical miles offshore. As we continued west bird numbers dropped. The sun came out from the marine layer, and we had sunny skies the remainder of the day. Fork-tailed Storm-Petrels flitted around and Black-footed Albatrosses wheeled up and soared over to investigate us. A floating mat of bull kelp provided a resting place for two Arctic Terns and a couple of Sabine's Gulls. We spotted a few more Tufted Puffins, while Cassin's and Rhinoceros Auklets appeared at irregular intervals. Red Phalaropes outnumbered Red-necked, but neither were plentiful out here.

Black-footed Albatross, off Newport, Oregon on 5 May 2012 by Greg Gillson

 
About 12:30 p.m. we reached 45 miles offshore, where we stopped for a while and chummed. We attracted a half dozen Black-footed Albatrosses, a couple Fork-tailed Storm-Petrels, and a few California Gulls. A new pelagic bird, a Parasitic Jaeger, zoomed in to attack the Sabine's Gulls. We were hoping for additional deep water specialties, but none showed. We headed southeast for an hour, then back east toward shore, spending a total of 3-1/2 hours beyond 30 miles, and about 2 hours beyond 40 miles--not enough to pick up deep water rarities.

Red-necked Phalarope, off Newport, Oregon on 5 May 2012 by Greg Gillson

 
Where did the sea birds go? Our return pelagic trip was quite slim on birds except for an occasional Rhinoceros Auklet or Cassin's Auklet sitting on the water, or a lone albatross soaring along. Finally, about 12 miles from shore birds picked up. We ran back into numerous Sooty Shearwaters and Red-necked Phalaropes again. Common Murres increased. A large flock of Greater White-fronted Geese were heading north over the ocean to Alaska.

Yaquina Head, Oregon on 5 May 2012 by Greg Gillson

 
The following seas with gentle swell aided our seabird cruise in returning to shore ahead of schedule. So we veered north toward the Yaquina Head lighthouse. Murres were abundant, and other birds were increasing. A pale loon deserved a second look, so we turned the boat around.Could it be? Yes! A Yellow-billed Loon--the first ever for our pelagic birding boat trips. It seemed unconcerned with our joy, diving down and coming up with fish. We found 4 more Marbled Murrelets near the jetty. A flock of Bonaparte's Gulls--new for the trip--migrated north near the beach.

Yellow-billed Loon, off Newport, Oregon on 5 May 2012 by Greg Gillson

 
We entered Yaquina Bay about 6:40 p.m. where we spotted 2 Wandering Tattlers on the jetties. There were several Red-necked Grebes. A couple of people picked out a drake Harlequin Duck against the jetty. The Brant were back where we saw them in the morning--though they must have moved elsewhere during high tide. We docked the boat and disembarked. What a fun day!

The Bird Guide, Inc. leads pelagic birding trips several times per year. Check our schedule to book your next exciting trip today!

Friday Foto: Black-footed Albatross

Black-footed Albatross, 25 miles off Newport, Oregon, 15 May 2011 by Greg Gillson.

 

Found in the Pacific NW only far offshore where they eat squid, the Black-footed Albatross has a 7 foot wingspan. This actually makes them one of the smallest albatrosses in the world!

I organize guided birding boat trips offshore specifically to see these and other seabirds that cannot usually be seen from land in the Pacific NW.

We have discussed Black-footed Albatrosses previously.

Seabirds from boats

Marbled Murrelet, from a boat off Newport, Oregon on 21 February, 2009 by Greg Gillson.

 

Last week's post discussed a seawatch--viewing seabirds from shore. In it, I showed views of seabirds as they would appear using binoculars and spotting scopes.

In last week's post we "magnified" a pair of Red-necked Grebes about a half mile offshore. In the magnified view--a view as would be seen with a spotting scope--we discovered another small speck of a bird that I identified as a Marbled Murrelet in flight.

Over time, a dedicated seawatcher may see many of the Pacific Northwest's oceanic birds. However, many seabirds would be just specks--even with a spotting scope. Without closer-range experience, one would not be able to learn the distinctive flight characteristics that would help identify some birds. And many seabirds rarely come near land off the Pacific NW.

The only way to see these birds better, in the Pacific Northwest, is to board a boat.

Boats do present some logistic challenges: route, instability, expense, and mal de mar (seasickness).

Unless you own your own seaworthy craft, the only way to get the boat to go bird watching is to charter it. Chartering a vessel in the Pacific NW may cost $750 for a small boat ("six-pack," which carries 6 persons on a 20-30 foot boat) or a larger Coast Guard certified vessel that may carry 20-30 passengers on a boat 40-55 feet long for a rate of about $2500 per day. Sharing the cost among the participants is a way to make such a trip affordable--but usually can't be done on the spur of the moment.

In the Pacific Northwest, the only two regular providers of bird watching trips by boat, or "pelagic trips," are Westport Seabirds in Washington State and The Bird Guide in Oregon. Shearwater Journeys operates out of California (primarily Monterey area) with some trips in northern California. There are a couple other providers (often Audubon Societies and dedicated individuals) that offer pelagic trips from Monterey south to San Diego.

Only the larger boats are Coast Guard certified to travel beyond 20 miles of shore--out to the albatrosses and several other more oceanic species. Thus, a dedicated group pelagic trip on a large boat is the most direct way for an individual to view seabirds. A full-day trip may cost $150 per person.

On such a trip, many birds will still be distant. But unlike on a land-based seawatch, you can get closer with the boat. A chartered pelagic birding trip is designed to go where the birds are. During the day, chances are good that you will see thousands of seabirds, many at very close range. On your first such trip you are likely to add 15-20 life birds--species you've never seen before!

Because the boat bobs on the waves, a birder on a regular pelagic trip cannot use a scope and tripod--binoculars are required. Of course, bobbing up and down looking through binoculars is not easy on your equilibrium, leading to queasiness (or worse) for some people. Despite these challenges, a pelagic trip is the best way to see seabirds. They are timed for the best birding and led by expert seabird guides intent on showing you seabirds and helping you to identify them.

 

Happy birders encounter fishing vessels trailing thousands of seabirds (albatrosses, shearwaters, fulmars, jaegers, petrels, and other birds, not to mention whales and dolphins!) on a pelagic trip off Newport, Oregon on 31 May 2003 by Greg Gillson.

 

There are a few options besides a scheduled pelagic trip. These options are less certain than a pelagic trip--you may not see any birds worth mentioning. Or worse--you see lots of birds just a few hundred feet away but the boat won't travel toward them so you can identify them, because... it is not a birding trip. More important, you'll often have to identify the birds yourself.

1) Whale watching trip: From certain ports on the West Coast, specifically at Newport and Depoe Bay on the central Oregon coast, local fishing charters lead out trips to view Gray Whales at $20 per person. These trips will often be right along shore, though in winter they may go out 5 miles. These trips last an hour or two. Gray Whales and Marbled Murrelets feed on the sandy bottom and are often seen together. You might see a Rhinoceros Auklet, Tufted Puffin, or Northern Fulmar. You may see nothing, not even a whale.

2) Bottom or salmon fishing trip: "Deep sea fishing" is not done in the deep sea. Boats rarely go out more than 3 miles for bottom fishing, often less than one mile to "inner reefs." However, if you want to join fishing friends for 4 hours, you can often get a 1/2 fare for non-fishing passenger, or about $35. These won't see any more than on a whale watch trip, but are offered from more ports. Expect lots of cormorants, murres, and Pigeon Guillemots, and probably some Marbled Murrelets and maybe some other nearshore pelagic birds and harbor porpoises.

3) Halibut or tuna fishing trip: These trips go out 20-40 miles and take you into albatross waters. However, once there you are likely either to sit in one place or troll round and round in a small area. These trips are 12-18 hours, cost about $350 per person, and usually do not allow non-fishing passengers. If you like to fish, this can be a great trip. However, there may be hours at a time with no birds whatsoever. The best birds are often seen on the trip out and back, which may be at dawn and dusk. Halibut trips such as these are offered only May and August. The tuna trips are July to early September.

4) Cruise ship repositioning trips: Lasting 3-4 days, these trips on luxury ocean liners are surprisingly affordable ($200). They travel out at 60 miles, beyond large numbers of birds, including albatrosses--out where any bird could be a mega-rare petrel or other seabird. Great whales are often spotted. A 3-day cruise will cost you far less than 3 regular one-day pelagic trips (especially if you include travel, motel, and food for 3 days). You'll have to come up with a bus ($75) or rental car from Vancouver, British Columbia and a flight from either San Francisco ($170) or Long Beach, California. So, maybe $550 per person (from Portland, Oregon), double-occupancy, in a lower-class room. Advantages of a cruise ship include a bed if you get tired, food is included in the price, and you can set up your spotting scope on the deck. You usually bird from a covered deck on about the 7th floor of the bow. In many ways, this is like a seawatch. For the past several years small groups of birders have been arranging these trips--so you may find a trip with other expert seabirders to help spot and identify birds.

This post is co-published on the Oregon Seabirds blog.

Sometimes the best birding memories aren't the birds

Humpback Whale, off Newport, Oregon on 2 October 2010 by Greg Gillson.

 

On a recent ocean bird watching boat trip we enjoyed many seabirds and marine mammals. Now, I've seen humpback whales about 35-40 times. But in all those encounters I've never seen such active whales... continuously-repeating full breaches, and tail lobbing--how exciting!

This got me thinking. Watching birds has taken me to nearly every corner of Oregon--open ocean, sage deserts, rain forests, mountain tops... Crater Lake, Fort Rock, Multnomah Falls, Steens Mountains, Cape Arago. Likewise, I've birded in many scenic places throughout the West, and just tasted a couple of the unimaginably wide variety of birds and locations across the planet.

Sometimes the highlights of the birding trips are not the birds. Sometimes it is some other animal--like the humpback whales seen in the accompanying photos. Sometimes it is the fantastic scenery. It may be a historic place. It may be the people I meet at a new locale, or the people I travel with--birders or not.

Birding is a great way to see (and appreciate) the world and meet new people!

Pirate of the seas: South Polar Skua

South Polar Skua, off Newport, Oregon on 11 September 2010 by Greg Gillson.

 

The big brute in the photo above is a South Polar Skua. I obtained this photo recently as the bird circled our boat, 35 miles offshore.

What is a skua? Skuas are dark seabirds with white wing patches. They are related to gulls. They have webbed feet and strong hooked bills. They are the size of the largest gulls, but heavier. South Polar Skuas differ from the other 3 or 4 species of skuas by being evenly dark, except for golden spangles on the hind neck.

Skuas are powerful and aggressive loners, attacking other seabirds. They steal fish from other seabirds--even if already swallowed!

More than once I have seen a skua pounce on a swimming Pink-footed Shearwater, grab it by the shoulders, and repeatedly dunk it underwater, trying to force the poor exhausted bird to regurgitate its last catch. In such a case, the skua may actually drown the shearwater and eat it instead.

Skuas are larger, bulkier, and more deliberate than the similar smaller aerobatic jaegers. While the Parasitic Jaeger reminds some of an ocean-going Peregrine Falcon, the South Polar Skua is more like a Red-tailed Hawk in comparison.

These birds are highly pelagic (found in the open ocean) and very rarely seen from shore in the Pacific NW. Most sightings here are at least 8 miles offshore, and most seem to be 20-40 miles distant from land.

The worldwide population of these birds is very small, only 5,000 - 10,000 breeding pairs. And their name is apt. They nest on the shores of Antarctica, where they victimize penguins.

While most of the population seems to remain in the southern hemisphere, some (perhaps mostly younger birds) undergo a migration around the entire Pacific Ocean. In spring they are found primarily in seas around Japan. They then circle around the Gulf of Alaska and show up off the coasts of the Pacific Northwest from August to early October. Then they are back in Antarctica to lay eggs in December and January.

Pacific NW ocean-going bird watching tours, called pelagic trips, rarely encounter more than half-a-dozen birds on a single day trip. In fact, one bird is probably the most frequent number seen, if any. That is why, though aggressive, it is always exciting to see one winging by.

And, if you're lucky, it may even circle the boat and allow you better views, and maybe a photo....

Yaquina Head: Common Murre nesting colony

Yaquina Head, Newport, Oregon on 17 July 2010 by Greg Gillson.

 

There were about 25,000 Common Murres surveyed in 1988 at Yaquina Head, north of Newport, Oregon. Today, over 80,000 murres nest here, according to the US Fish & Wildlife Service, the vast majority on Colony Rock, west of the lighthouse. This is more than the total number of nesting murres in British Columbia and Washington State combined.

Other common nesting seabirds at Yaquina Head include Brandt's Cormorant, Western Gull, Pelagic Cormorant, Pigeon Guillemot, and Glaucous-winged Gull.

Common Murre carrying fish to nestling on Yaquina Head, Newport, Oregon on 17 July 2010 by Greg Gillson.

 

This past weekend I led a nearshore pelagic trip past Yaquina Head and had opportunity to view Common Murres at close range at sea. Many of the murres were ferrying fish back and forth to their single nestlings. Some of the fish brought back were quite small, indicating that the chicks are still small. This bird above, though, has quite a large fish, so its offspring might be larger.

According to published data, when about 25 days old, chicks about 20-25% of the adult's weight go to sea with the male parent. Chick/parent pairs are seen typically by late June or early July. Since we didn't see any chicks at sea, I wonder if the nesting season is a bit delayed this year?

Common Murre, Newport, Oregon on 17 July 2010 by Greg Gillson.

 

Similar to Thick-billed Murres of more northerly waters, Common Murres have several slight differences visible at sea. For one, Common Murres have black bars along their white flanks, as clearly seen in the photo above.

Common Murre, Newport, Oregon on 17 July 2010 by Greg Gillson.

 

At the coast... Pigeon Guillemot

Pigeon Guillemot, Newport, Oregon on 9 August 2008 by Greg Gillson.

 

Pigeon Guillemots are common nearshore seabirds on the West Coast. They breed from the the Kamchatka Peninsula in Asia, north to the Bering Strait, through the Aleutians, and south to islands off southern California. From spring through fall you can find these small black waterbirds with bright red feet in bays and estuaries and in the ocean along rocky shores.

Pigeon Guillemots nest on pilings, bridge footings, and under wharfs in bays and estuaries. On the outer coast they choose rocky sea cliffs where they lay their 2 eggs in a crevice or similar protected cranny. You can hear their drawn out high piping whistle call that runs together at the end: see-see-see-see-see-see-seeeer.

In winter they become scarce on the open ocean and outer bays of California, Oregon, and Washington. Some field guides say that they winter "far offshore," but this may not be the case. Many evidently migrate northward to Puget Sound and protected waters off British Columbia. Likewise, most of the birds breeding in the Bering Sea move southward to southern Alaska. During this time they molt into a non-breeding plumage that is mostly dusky white with dark on the crown, back, and parts of the wing.

These birds swim in the ocean and then dive below the surface to chase fish for food. They flap their wings under water to propel themselves. They feed in shallower waters than the related murres and puffins.

Pigeon Guillemot, Newport, Oregon on 9 August 2009 by Greg Gillson.

 


The most similarly colored bird to Pigeon Guillemot is the White-winged Scoter, a slightly larger sea duck. Swimming, both Cassin's Auklets and Rhinoceros Auklets are rather dark gray above the waterline. But the Pigeon Guillemot differs obviously from these last two, in that the guillemot has the large white wing patch.

Many people have trouble determining whether a patch of color on the upperparts of a non-flying bird is on the back or wing. By comparing the two photos above you can see how a wing patch looks in flight compared to when the wing is folded.

Another thing that the two photos reveal is that I visited the coast and captured photos of Pigeon Guillemots two years in a row on the exact same day! That is because I was at the coast each year to help guide on a pelagic birding trip. A pelagic trip is a tour set up to go far to sea (35 miles in this case) on a chartered fishing boat, but to view seabirds, not do any fishing. There are about 20 species of seabirds off the Pacific NW, that are rarely spotted from shore and that are common to abundant just out of sight of land. Please visit our pelagic birding website to learn more.